Matières Fécales is a brand with an opinion, and at its Spring/Summer 2027 show in Paris, it made sure it was heard loud and clear. Founded by co-creative director duo Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran in 2014, Matières Fécales has a reputation for making bold statements with its avant-garde designs, acting as a voice for those who often find themselves without one. This season, Matières Fécales used that voice to say what's been on all of our minds.
Having only recently - by the fashion industry's historical standards - earned its place on the world stage, having been worn by the likes of actor Zendaya (Dune, Challengers, The Drama), model Gabbriette, actor Demi Moore (The Substance, Indecent Proposal), and plenty others in the past few months alone, Matières Fécales is fast becoming one of the most watched young brands out there. That's why Rihanna making an appearance to sit front row at its Spring/Summer 2027 show wasn't as shocking as it might've been a season or two ago.
The show opened with a series of simple - by Matières Fécales' standards - looks, made up of monochromatic red, white, and black draped fabrics. These looks felt ceremonial, almost religious, and were accompanied by a soft, ethereal music as models walked the circumference of the iconic fountain in the centre of Place de la République. Closing this part of the show was designer Steven Raj Bhaskaran himself, walking with three other generations of his family, in what seemed to be a demonstration of strength in unity and the power of community.
The next part of the show was in stark contract to its opening looks. Smoke began to seep from the fountain as loud rap blared, and through the mist came models with powerful walks and facial prosthetics. Face coverings, khaki co-ords, cross symbols, and graphics displaying the words "RESIST" all combined to create a clear message, which was emphasised by the three models who closed this part of the show: a trio of non-white female presenting models who walking in solemn unison, their looks making up the colours of the French flag.
Matières Fécales' final verse closed its SS27 show with optimism. The brand's Couture looks were absolutely breathtaking, with delicately crafted gowns and sharp tailored suits seeming to take inspiration from the full variety of Paris' multicultural population. The brand's message of hope was accented with realism, as two models walked carrying dummies of what seemed to be white male politicians on their shoulders. The moral of Matières Fécales' SS27 show is impossible to miss.
