Rabanne just announced that Balmain’s former creative director, Olivier Rousteing is stepping in at the house, succeeding Julien Dossena, and I need you to understand why the decision makes so much sense.
Legendary Spanish designer Paco Rabanne formed the brand back in the ‘60s with a glittering “Space Age” aesthetic. Known for its hyper-modern silhouettes and unconventional materials such as metal and plastic, his designs were an opulent and alien-esque armour.
At Balmain between 2011-2025, French designer Olivier Rousteing gained a reputation for being similarly opulent in his approach. Plenty of Rousteing’s pieces were designed from jewels, metal, and sequins, and he’s never been one to shy away from experimenting with unusual materials, designing Tyla’s Met Gala 2024 dress from actual sand and micro-crystal studs.
Rousteing also has a penchant for experimental and often hyper-modern silhouettes. His designs have been known to manipluate tailoring and boning to create looks that feel truly sculptural. When he imagined Jean Paul Gaultier’s Couture at Fall 2022, coming on as a guest designer, he interpreted the house’s codes through his own highly sculptural vision.
Personally, I’ve been waiting for a designer that isn’t afraid to be bold, opulent, and experimental at Rabanne, and I feel that Rousteing is the perfect fit. Olivier’s first collection for Rabanne will be presented in March 2027. What do you think it’ll look like?
